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Patka (Waistband) – Traditional Clothing of Rajasthani Men

Sep 4

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Patka - A Waist Band on Maharaja Jai Singh

Patka - A Waist Band on Maharaja Jai Singh

PATKA or kamarband  is a waistband (simply a piece of cloth tied across the waist ) in which a sword is fixed. There is a tradition of tying patkas as it is useful in two ways : Firstly it makes the person active and secondly it aids in tucking weapons and arms which made the two hands free to hold.

BACKGROUND

The Royal Rajasthani class used to tie high quality patkas like cotton ,silken  while  in  winter season they prefer woolen patkas. The past pictures depicts that earlier patka’s length and breadth was less. They used to have geometrical designs printed on them.

BASIC CLOTH

The cloth was woven, printed and embroidered. The base is of one colour and type only. Even bootis were of same colour as base. The corners had multi-coloured stems and on border huge size of bootis of lotus, chameli etc were embroidered.

HISTORY

During the period of Akbar, geometrical designs were made while in Jahangir and Shaahjahan period, floral pattern was in trend.  The best  example can be seen from collection shown in Kashi  Hindu University where there is patka in which beautiful combination and style of grape stem is depicted. The auspicious birds and animals like peacock were embroidered in it.

How Patka’s Evolved?

In eighteen century, patka become less useful. It used to have more ornaments and there was greater difference in their length and breadths. Gradually its broadness increased from 1.5 mtr to 2 mtr.

In 20th century, the art of making patka was stopped, only olden patka’s were used in royal courts. In Rajasthan, patkas of Chanderi, Banaras and Ahmedabad became popular. These patkas were worn in Mughal and Rajput courtyards.

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Choga – A Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani Men’s Garment

Sep 3

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Choga - Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani and Indian Wear

Choga - Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani and Indian Wear

Rajasthani men have a wide range of upper garment to satisfy their sartorial taste. Jama, Achkan, Angarkha and Choga  are some of the royal and aristocratic garments of Rajasthani men.

CHOGA

Choga, an affluent class wear, is worn above angarkha. It is primarily made of woolen, silken material. It is very attractive in appearance. Choga is a long sleeved robe that is worn loosely around bodice. It is not worn daily rather preferred for special occasions. It is an upper wear in which there are ghoondis instead of buttons and rounded ties in which ghoondis are fixed .

IMPORTANCE

In royal courts, choga were so prevalent that the artisans of Banaras and Dhaka used to prepare the garment according to measurement in which different styles of designs, motifs, decorative items were used. It’s present  attire can be seen in museum of Kashi Hindu University.

The motifs of hunting scenes are made on outer portion while on inner part drawings of birds and animals were beautifully woven.

Variety of Choga: Seasonal, Designer and Patterned

Tailors stitch the cloth according to the pattern depicted on the pieces. These pieces are known as Parcha and they became the trend and style of garment.

In winters, woollen choga are preferred. Generally needlen work is done for depicting the designs on choga. The silken threads are used for needle work.

In Rajasthan during nineteen century, badlas and sitare (decorative items) were used. In Punjab, embroidered chogas are more popular. In Amritsar, there is a main centre of woolen chogas manufacturing unit from where it is supplied to royal class of Rajasthan.

The choga made of muslin which was woven in jamdani style was worn in summers. It was lightly embroidered with bootis. In Tanjeb, choga silken threads are used for embroidery.

Rounded motifs of filled floral pattern are used on choga made from pashmina and expensive woollen cloth. In these type of woolen choga  there are two types of lining: interior one is of thick white cloth while exterior one is of stripped and silk material.

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Chakdar and Gherdar Jama – Tradition Mughal and Rajasthani Wear

Sep 2

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The tradition of wearing jama was on the occasions of wars and marriage ceremonies. Jama  is a tight fitting bodice, high waist and a flared skirt which vary from knee to ankle length. On the upper portion there is choli and it touches the knees. It’s not a daily wear clothing.

ORIGIN:

In the mid of seventeen century before Akbar reign, jama was court dress known as “Takauchiya’jama”. The flare of jama was not chakdar rather it was gherdar. Abdul fazl has written in the history that Akbar promoted gherdar jama. It is depicted in pictures, paintings and museum of the sixteen century.

Jama - Tradition Mughal and Rajasthani Wear

Jama - Tradition Mughal and Rajasthani Wear

STRUCTURE:

It is open fronted garment with one panel crossed over another on the front. It is kept in pace by tie cords which held the inner panel on the inside at the waist or armpit

Fabric:

Fine cloth, silk or brocade is used for making jama. Jama measured cloth is embroidered, woven and printed.

TYPES:

There are two types: chakdar jama and gherdar jama. The chakdar jama has hanging, narrowing  ends of the sort while later on had an even round hemline and tended to be full.

Earlier in Rajasthan knee length jama was there but with passage of time long jama, that covered  the feet and trailed the floor, was in fashion. It started in the eighteen centuary while earlier one last till (1719-1748)Mohammad shah period.

EMBROIDERY PROCESS:

On bodice there are dense bootis which are embroidered. There is strings or cords for closing choli known as kas. These underneath kas are simple and outer ones are beautiful, ornamented and attractive. The stem which are on corners is broad on exterior and narrow in interior.

In the 19 th centuary the area of choli in which there is one flap over other was changed to front open.

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Kumar And Nathdwara Bandis – Closed Sleeveless Jacket For Rajasthani Men

Aug 31

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Rajasthani Traditional Winter Jacket - Bandi

Rajasthani Traditional Winter Jacket - Bandi

Bandi is a close fitted sleeveless garment (jacket). There are two types of bandi which is commonly used in Rajasthan. One type of bandi is worn by kumhar or potter community as an outer garment which is totally for the comfort purpose. It generally features a round neck in front and the back.

Different communities of Rajasthan wear bandi with variations in neck openings. A central placket with buttons could be incorporated or an opening on the shoulder with ties.  Kumar bandi has silver buttons linked with chain. A slit opening  for holding cash etc is there .

NATHDWARA BANDIS:

Another type of Bandi is originated and developed in Nathdwara.  This place is located 48 kms from Udaipur in Rajasthan literally means “gateway of lord shrinathji“. It is worn both by male and female for keeping them warm in winters. It is generally made by putting lining under pashmina or costly warm cloth.

ORIGIN:

It was originated before 100yrs by Gordhan Das of Nathdwara. Shree Basantilal and Shree Purshottum have learned this art and manufacture it in larger scale.

IMPORTANCE:

It has same significance as quilt occupies in winter nights. That effect remain in the day time so these are stitched.

PRESENT SCENARIO:

Nowdays  Satin and cotton bandis are made. Earlier zari bandis  are manufacture. Initially, lining is cut then cotton is filled in it. The cost of cotton bandis ranges from Rs 150 -300 while satin bandis are 350-500 Rs. Small bandis are 10,12,18 and 20 inch long while big bandis are 34-38 inch and are loose fitting.

DESIGN:

There are two types of designs found in bandis: Floral or Square cut pattern. In square pattern, the design is in straight line pattern either stripped horizontally or vertically while in floral pattern the shapes of lotus leaves are designed. On the corners Gota is stitched by defining the costume. In front 5-7 buttons are there to make it comfortable to wear.

The bandis which is made in Nathdwara are mostly of cotton material and prepared artistically. Thats why it is not not only famous in Rajasthan but also in Gujarat, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. The Vaishnav class of Maharasthra and Gujarat specially wear these bandis and they purchase from Nathdwara. It is source of livelihood of Nathdwara local manufacturers.

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Atamsukh – Rajasthani Kings And Royal Family Wear

Aug 28

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Rajasthan Kings And Royal Family Wear - Atamsukh

Rajasthan Kings And Royal Family Wear - Atamsukh

Rajasthan is famous for its colourful culture. It is not only depicted through its festivals and ceremonies but also reflected in clothing style and costume.

Atamsukh in sanskrit means “giver of comfort to the soul”. It is similar to jama but quilted. It used to be worn by Rajasthan’s royal family males.  It was mainly developed for the purpose of keeping the wearer warm.

Its length is upto knees but has small sleeves. It’s padded like jama-yi -puma -dar or salwar with cotton wool. Then quilted to keep padding in place between two layers of fabrics. During mughal period, it was decorated on outer surface by fabric such as silk and brocade both for insulating and warmth.

DISPLAY OF ATAMSUKH

The huge size atamsukh, a beautiful rich Banaras brocade quilted cloak of Rajasthani Maharaja Sawai is an object of attraction. They are displayed on the first floor of Mubrack Mahal and City Palace museum.

SIMILARITY

It is quite similar to Kashmiri Phiran. It denotes the size and style of Maharaja along with fashion and trend prevalent during those times. Royal members used to put  puthia on their shoulders.

Confusion reigns between atamsukh and choga of early mughal era. The prevalent Persian and Turkish garment brought over to India by Babur and its forces in 1525 would be mutating due to climate and inevitable fashion changes that happens naturally.

This garment which covers the entire body and is intended for wear in colder seasons, remains in wardrobe of man of affairs and status until today.

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Kurta – A Fascinating Collarless Upper Wear For Rajasthani Traditional Men

Aug 27

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Kurta - Traditional Attire for Rajasthani Men

Kurta - Traditional Attire for Rajasthani Men

Welcome to a glorious riot of color, pomp and pageantry to a lifestyle that is a fanfare of festivals and celebrations. To a specimen of architecture that is grand in style and intricate in design, To a fantasy in color and store.

Welcome to Rajasthan!!

INTRODUCTION

Rajasthani traditional customs vary on the basis of climate and natural fibers grown in the region. “KURTA” the Rajasthani male upper wear is perhaps one of the most fascinating and attractive attire. The word “KURTA ” is a borrowing from Urdu and Hindi and originally from Persian meaning a collarless shirt and was first used in English in 20th century.

VARIETIES OF  RAJASTHANI KURTA

The Kalidhar kurta is made from geometrical pieces. It has two rectangular panels in the back and in the front. Four flared side panels called kali are attached on either side of central panels.

Their shapes is triangular, narrow at the top and wider at the bottom. The sleeves are rectangular, they are cut square at top and the armholes are set somewhat deep. Small triangular gussets are inserted under arms and sleeves taper towards wrists. The neck is round, garment having side pockets. Sometimes buttonholes are made on both side of planchets into which silver or golden buttons are held together by chains.

There is another type of kurta with two panels back and front which bulge out at the bottom.

FABRICS

Kurta worn in summers are usually made of cotton fabrics whereas winter season kurtas are made of thicker material such as khadi silk a thick coarse hand spun silk that may mixed with other fabrics. Nowdays buttons used in kurta are of wood or plastic while in formal occasions decorative metal buttons which are not sewn to the fabric. Such buttons can be decorated with jewels, enameling etc.

A shorter variation of rajasthan kurta is the “julki” both men and women of garasia community wear it.

Image Source: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/religion/worksheets/diwali_clothes/kurta.jpg

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Dhoti – A Reflection of Rich Heritage and Glorious Culture of Rajasthani Men

Aug 26

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Rajasthani Male Lower Garment - Dhoti

Rajasthani Male Lower Garment - Dhoti

“Dhoti”  is the lower garment which is popular in all almost all the states of India. In early history, dhoti used to be a casual daily wear. With passage of time it has become a formal clothing, however males in Rajasthan still wear it on daily basis.

GENERAL INTRODUCTION

It is a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth about 5 yards long wrapped around the waist and legs and knotted at the waist. Dhotis do have pockets but they do have a roll at the waistline. It is possible to carry keys, cash etc placing them in the roll. Most of the time white dhotis are in use  but on special ceremonies people prefer wearing silk dhotis with azari border.

Significance and Regional Dhoti Names

It is known by different names in different languages like “Mundu” in Malayam, ‘Dhuti’ in Bengla,’Veshti’ in Tamil , ” Pancha”in Telgu,”Dhotar “in Marathi and “Panche”in Karnataka.

The one prominent leader who popularized dhoti was father of our nation  “Mahatma Gandhi”. The strong believers and supporters of Hare Krishna movement have made dhoti their dress code. The practitioners wear saffron and white colour clothing.

STEPS TO WEAR DHOTI

It is not a easy task to wear dhoti, one has to learn style of drapping it around waist.

  • Intially take a long piece of unstitched cloth
  • Divide the cloth according to the measurements
  • Tie a knot near the navel
  • Make a series of folds on the right side and tuck the folded part at the waist .
  • Similarly made a series of folds on left side .
  • Take folded part of cloth between your legs and tuck it from behind and dhoti has been draped.

IMPORTANCE IN RAJASTHANI CULTURE

In Rajasthan, the garment is worn with a kurta on top as the combination called as dhoti kurta or angarkha dhoti. Rajasthani men clad in dhoti reflect the rich heritage and glorious culture of rajasthan.

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Angrakha – An Ethnic and Stylish Rajasthani Men Upper Wear

Aug 25

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Angrakhan - The Protection Cover For Traditional Mens Wear

Angrakhan - The Protection Cover For Traditional Men's Wear

Angrakha is derivation from sanskrit word  ‘Angrakshak’ or body protector meaning something that protects the limbs. It is quite a famous and prevalent men wear in Rajasthan.

People wear angarkhas’ made of locally manufactured clothes.  It is mainly a long sleeve, full skirted tunic for men generally open at the chest and tied in front with an inner flap covering the chest.

Angarkha does not have a standing collar unlike choga or atamsukh. This neckline usually being close to the base of throat in its fitting. It closes in the front sometimes on the chest and held in place by means of either ties or a small fabric covered buttons and loop.

It is developmental garment which has contemporary origins in the 16 th century jama-yi -pumba mentioned by Abdul Fazl in Ain -i-Akbari. It is actually a formal wear of affluent class in Rajasthan. The local and tribal communities wear shorter version (angarkhi) know as putia in the region. To improve mobility of wearer slits are made at the sides and also at the wrists.

DIFFERENT STYLES

It is interesting notion that in Muslim tradition the visible outer tie cords are positioned under right armpit while the Hindu angarkhas have the noticeable tie under left armpit. The inner fastenings are in opposite sides. This style of tying distinguishes two communities of Rajasthan.

CLOTH

It is made of plain silk or brocade especially for wedding occasions. Fine cotton voile with gold tinsel printed make a special feature. Tie and die angarkhas are reserved for special Rajasthani festivals while cotton ones for daily wear.

SEASONAL INFULENCE

During winters angarkhas of thick quilted material are worn while in summer s fine cotton angarkhas are used to protect from  heat wave. In Rajasthan, people wear Kamari angarkhi that reaches the waist when they have to formally dressed. The length vary 5-7.5 m.

The beauty of Angarkha depicts the culture & colour which is still embedded in the land of Rajasthan.

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Traditional Rajasthani Male Costumes – Angarakha, Turban, Dhoti and Jooti

Aug 24

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Traditional Rajasthani Man Wear

Traditional Rajasthani Man Wear

Rajasthan a mosaic of landscape and terrain each of singular beauty whether it is dunes of desert or forested hills. The people of Rajasthan are perhaps the most colourful – their history, religion, music and dance, arts and crafts remain vibrantly alive and active.

Rajasthan male is quite a peacock. Every inch of splendid frame is superbly ornamented  from stiff starched furl of his saffron or a shocking pink turban to the tips of tunned up toes of his traditional jootis.

Angarakha & Dhotis

The dress of Rajasthani male are well versed and well cut from top to bottom. It goes with the climatic conditions of the state. The upper portion is covered mainly with the angarakha or achakan. Angarakha is of two types: frock style and waist length kamari angarakha and long angarakha that reaches below ones knees.

Dhoti or pajama is the lower garment which make up the male outfit. The dhoti is long cotton cloth which is to be perfectly tied.

People of royal families and upper class used to wear “patka”1.5by 1m cloth that was kept on the shoulder or worn around the waist to tuck in the weapons in the medieval period. Nowdays it is obsolete.

Turbans (head cover) of different  colours is used  mostly on all occassions and ceremonies. There are different styles and pattern of turban each denoting class, culture and region of the wearer.

Royal costume in Rajasthan reflects regal taste of the state, but now with passage of time most trends have pushed the dressing style of male costume limited to shirt and trouser. Although the general masses (villagers) still continue the olden traditional wear.

One says “There is much to support the view that it is clothes that wear us and not we wear them. We may make them take the mould of arm and chest cover but they would mould our hearts ,our brains our tongues to their likings.”

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Rajasthani Clothings – An Introduction To What People From Traditional Rajasthan Wear

Aug 22

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Rajasthan Men Clothing - Kurta, Turban & Big Mustache Rajasthan Men Clothing – Kurta, Turban & Big Mustache

Rajasthanis are sturdy classical lot despite their ecological adversities and long feudal history. Nevertheless  no visitor to Rajasthan fail to notice the good physique of average rajasthani male and colourful dress of Rajasthani female.

Rajasthani people has to face all the problems related to water, food and fodder scarcity still people have managed to evolve lifestyle which vibrate with hope, faith and cheerfulness. Vibrant colours and patterns of rajasthanis depict the rajasthani tradition.

An Introduction to Rajasthani Male Clothing

The clothing style of men reflect the style of those lived in olden times. The men clothing is adaption of numerous historical and foreign influences. The lower garment of Rajasthani men is unstitched dhoti or a stitched garment such as pajma which is type of a trouser. The upper garment include bandi and angarakha although today kurta is considered to be traditional wear.

Turban or pagri, pencha, safa etc is the head dress of rajasthani men. The differential pattern of each geographical region is designed to suit climatic influence. There are about 1000 different styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan each denoting class, caste and region of wearer. It comes in all shapes, sizes and colours and there are specific turbans for specific occasion.

White dhotis are in vogue but on special occasion people wear silk dhotis.

Rajasthani Women Attire: An Overview

Traditional Clothing For Rajasthani Women Traditional Clothing For Rajasthani Women

The standard design include ghagra (skirt), odhani (head cloth) and kanchali (long, loose blouse). Odhani is long enough to cover the lower portion, one corner is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder. Colour and motifs are different according to caste and occasion.

There is one different kind of odhani Pila which is given by parents to daughter during the birth of a son. It is yellow in colour.

Rajasthani daily wear saris, odhani and turbans are often made from the technique of block printing and tie-dye.

Against the backdrop of dusty land, Rajasthani dresses is filled with with eye catching colours, the sparkle of mirror and silver and precious stones. The use of jootes is also common which is worn on feet specially decorated with gold thread and stars. It is said that jewellery also plays distinctive role in costume. An earring or studs, gold chains, silver hansli is the major ornament worn by Rajasthani people.

It is said that “If the cut of costume indicate intellect and talent then the colour indicate temper and heart”

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