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Odhani – Symbolic Representation of Rajasthani Women’s Devotion and Culture

Sep 23

Posted by mystaterajasthan in about rajasthan, clothes rajasthan | No Comments

Odhani - Rajasthani Women Wear Representing a Rich Culture

Odhani - Rajasthani Women Wear Representing a Rich Culture

Odhani is the symbolic representation of Rajasthan clan culture.  In high class of rural areas, the tradition of wearing odhani is quite ancient. The rural women adapt it as an idol of prestige and self respect.

Odhani wearing is a custom and devotion of Rajasthani women towards their husband and culture. Odhani is worn in combination with ghagra on lower portion and upper kurti/kanchali.

The length of odhani is around 3 meters and breadth is approx 1.5 meters which hangs along with ghagra.

On ordinary course, cotton and voil odhani is worn while on special  occasions, gota  odhani  with many colours    is more prevalent.

Printing and Coloring

The art of coloring and bandez work used to be done by famous Mittoji of Jaipur and Tadthyub khan.

From eighteen century onwards, the clothes used to be printed, colored and tied up in various forms in the markets of Jaipur city in Rajasthan, some of them are::

POMCHA

In this type of odhani, there is rounded motifs of lotus. The base is of yellow, saffron or pink coloured in which lotus flowers are beautifully displaced.

LEHARIYA

It is made of five colours which is the basis of Rajasthani number system.

CHUNARI

There are many kinds of motifs in chunari  like birds,  animals, floral and geometrical patterns.

IMPORTANCE

Many folk songs of Rajasthan are based on odhani which are sung on special festivals.

LAVERI ODHANI

In Vishnoi and Charan class, Laveri odhani is worn.

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Choga – A Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani Men’s Garment

Sep 3

Posted by mystaterajasthan in about rajasthan, clothes rajasthan | No Comments

Choga - Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani and Indian Wear

Choga - Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani and Indian Wear

Rajasthani men have a wide range of upper garment to satisfy their sartorial taste. Jama, Achkan, Angarkha and Choga  are some of the royal and aristocratic garments of Rajasthani men.

CHOGA

Choga, an affluent class wear, is worn above angarkha. It is primarily made of woolen, silken material. It is very attractive in appearance. Choga is a long sleeved robe that is worn loosely around bodice. It is not worn daily rather preferred for special occasions. It is an upper wear in which there are ghoondis instead of buttons and rounded ties in which ghoondis are fixed .

IMPORTANCE

In royal courts, choga were so prevalent that the artisans of Banaras and Dhaka used to prepare the garment according to measurement in which different styles of designs, motifs, decorative items were used. It’s present  attire can be seen in museum of Kashi Hindu University.

The motifs of hunting scenes are made on outer portion while on inner part drawings of birds and animals were beautifully woven.

Variety of Choga: Seasonal, Designer and Patterned

Tailors stitch the cloth according to the pattern depicted on the pieces. These pieces are known as Parcha and they became the trend and style of garment.

In winters, woollen choga are preferred. Generally needlen work is done for depicting the designs on choga. The silken threads are used for needle work.

In Rajasthan during nineteen century, badlas and sitare (decorative items) were used. In Punjab, embroidered chogas are more popular. In Amritsar, there is a main centre of woolen chogas manufacturing unit from where it is supplied to royal class of Rajasthan.

The choga made of muslin which was woven in jamdani style was worn in summers. It was lightly embroidered with bootis. In Tanjeb, choga silken threads are used for embroidery.

Rounded motifs of filled floral pattern are used on choga made from pashmina and expensive woollen cloth. In these type of woolen choga  there are two types of lining: interior one is of thick white cloth while exterior one is of stripped and silk material.

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Kumar And Nathdwara Bandis – Closed Sleeveless Jacket For Rajasthani Men

Aug 31

Posted by mystaterajasthan in about rajasthan, clothes rajasthan | No Comments

Rajasthani Traditional Winter Jacket - Bandi

Rajasthani Traditional Winter Jacket - Bandi

Bandi is a close fitted sleeveless garment (jacket). There are two types of bandi which is commonly used in Rajasthan. One type of bandi is worn by kumhar or potter community as an outer garment which is totally for the comfort purpose. It generally features a round neck in front and the back.

Different communities of Rajasthan wear bandi with variations in neck openings. A central placket with buttons could be incorporated or an opening on the shoulder with ties.  Kumar bandi has silver buttons linked with chain. A slit opening  for holding cash etc is there .

NATHDWARA BANDIS:

Another type of Bandi is originated and developed in Nathdwara.  This place is located 48 kms from Udaipur in Rajasthan literally means “gateway of lord shrinathji“. It is worn both by male and female for keeping them warm in winters. It is generally made by putting lining under pashmina or costly warm cloth.

ORIGIN:

It was originated before 100yrs by Gordhan Das of Nathdwara. Shree Basantilal and Shree Purshottum have learned this art and manufacture it in larger scale.

IMPORTANCE:

It has same significance as quilt occupies in winter nights. That effect remain in the day time so these are stitched.

PRESENT SCENARIO:

Nowdays  Satin and cotton bandis are made. Earlier zari bandis  are manufacture. Initially, lining is cut then cotton is filled in it. The cost of cotton bandis ranges from Rs 150 -300 while satin bandis are 350-500 Rs. Small bandis are 10,12,18 and 20 inch long while big bandis are 34-38 inch and are loose fitting.

DESIGN:

There are two types of designs found in bandis: Floral or Square cut pattern. In square pattern, the design is in straight line pattern either stripped horizontally or vertically while in floral pattern the shapes of lotus leaves are designed. On the corners Gota is stitched by defining the costume. In front 5-7 buttons are there to make it comfortable to wear.

The bandis which is made in Nathdwara are mostly of cotton material and prepared artistically. Thats why it is not not only famous in Rajasthan but also in Gujarat, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. The Vaishnav class of Maharasthra and Gujarat specially wear these bandis and they purchase from Nathdwara. It is source of livelihood of Nathdwara local manufacturers.

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