Choga - Royal and Aristocratic Rajasthani and Indian Wear
Rajasthani men have a wide range of upper garment to satisfy their sartorial taste. Jama, Achkan, Angarkha and Choga are some of the royal and aristocratic garments of Rajasthani men.
CHOGA
Choga, an affluent class wear, is worn above angarkha. It is primarily made of woolen, silken material. It is very attractive in appearance. Choga is a long sleeved robe that is worn loosely around bodice. It is not worn daily rather preferred for special occasions. It is an upper wear in which there are ghoondis instead of buttons and rounded ties in which ghoondis are fixed .
IMPORTANCE
In royal courts, choga were so prevalent that the artisans of Banaras and Dhaka used to prepare the garment according to measurement in which different styles of designs, motifs, decorative items were used. It’s present attire can be seen in museum of Kashi Hindu University.
The motifs of hunting scenes are made on outer portion while on inner part drawings of birds and animals were beautifully woven.
Variety of Choga: Seasonal, Designer and Patterned
Tailors stitch the cloth according to the pattern depicted on the pieces. These pieces are known as Parcha and they became the trend and style of garment.
In winters, woollen choga are preferred. Generally needlen work is done for depicting the designs on choga. The silken threads are used for needle work.
In Rajasthan during nineteen century, badlas and sitare (decorative items) were used. In Punjab, embroidered chogas are more popular. In Amritsar, there is a main centre of woolen chogas manufacturing unit from where it is supplied to royal class of Rajasthan.
The choga made of muslin which was woven in jamdani style was worn in summers. It was lightly embroidered with bootis. In Tanjeb, choga silken threads are used for embroidery.
Rounded motifs of filled floral pattern are used on choga made from pashmina and expensive woollen cloth. In these type of woolen choga there are two types of lining: interior one is of thick white cloth while exterior one is of stripped and silk material.
