Posts Tagged kanchali

Kurti – Ethnic Upper Wear of Rajasthani Women

Kurti is the shorter version of kurta. It is the upper garment of Rajasthani women worn with kanchali. In Rajasthan, only married women are required by tradition to wear a kurti.  party_kurti_KB23_sm

It is sleeveless garment with a deep horseshoe shaped neckline. Since the neck beneath is expanded most of kanchali beneath is exposed.

Different Styles

Kurti worn by Bishnoi class has a slitted side and a deep neckline that reveals all of Kanchali. The kurtis has its front open like a jacket, the piping at edges with a string holding the overlap at side seam and front is fastened with buttons and loops.

Rajput women kurti has no front opening and is easily slipped over the head.

Kurti Varieties

Embroidered Kurtis

Different embroidery, artworks like at needle work, cross-stitch,  suzani, phulkari, handanger are used to make embroidery kurtis. They are further decorated with zardosi work, beads, threads sequins and machine embroidery.

Printed Kurtis

The material used for this type of kurtis are cotton, silk, crepe and georgette. Tie and die, lehariya and mothra kurtis are most popular ones. Mirror work, kundan, stones, sequins and zari are used to make it attractive.

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Kanchali – Rajasthan Women Traditional Upper Garment

Kanchali - Traditional Women Wear

Kanchali - Traditional Women Wear

The modern culture has not only affected customers but have also put them into darkness. The society had been ignorant of various art which were prevalent and formed the very base of past culture.

KANCHALI

In Sanskrit, the word is known as kechuli. It is the upper most garment which covers the chest portion of a women. Kanchali has sleeves attached with the topper.

Each caste wears different kanchali. Gadolia lohar women wear kanchali with inner linning. Gujar, gadaria and jaghwa women wear Chapper and Panihari kanchalis.

HISTORY

Since a long time, the art of making kanchali was popular in Mewar and northern areas of Rajasthan like Bagarh, Chappan, Amoth and Mewal. The kanchalis stitched here were worn by every class, caste and women member of the families.

Ankola Kanchali is the best type of kanchali and it was different from other types of kanchalis. The art of kanchali was started in Ankola some 100-150 years ago.

The kanchali were not only stitched by tailors but also by other class of people such as Bhatt, Nath and Guru. According to the daily demand, a person used to stitch 50 kanchali  per day.

PATTERNS

Kanchali is of two types :

(1) Tukiyo

(2) Tunnwali

These are major kinds, apart from them there are others like pleated kaliya kanchali,Chopad and khadbuja kanchalis .

MATERIAL

The material used in kanchali were laltool, german blue, black khadi, yellow khadi, voil, satin, crepe and full crepe. In higher class kanchalis, expensive Pandachus are used.

In one kanchali, around 1/2 meter cloth is required  which is divided into ten parts: tuki, kadpa, bugal,  tuya,  kamerpeti, kantla, phunda, kasna and pichwada etc.

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Rajasthani Clothings – An Introduction To What People From Traditional Rajasthan Wear

Rajasthan Men Clothing - Kurta, Turban & Big Mustache Rajasthan Men Clothing – Kurta, Turban & Big Mustache

Rajasthanis are sturdy classical lot despite their ecological adversities and long feudal history. Nevertheless  no visitor to Rajasthan fail to notice the good physique of average rajasthani male and colourful dress of Rajasthani female.

Rajasthani people has to face all the problems related to water, food and fodder scarcity still people have managed to evolve lifestyle which vibrate with hope, faith and cheerfulness. Vibrant colours and patterns of rajasthanis depict the rajasthani tradition.

An Introduction to Rajasthani Male Clothing

The clothing style of men reflect the style of those lived in olden times. The men clothing is adaption of numerous historical and foreign influences. The lower garment of Rajasthani men is unstitched dhoti or a stitched garment such as pajma which is type of a trouser. The upper garment include bandi and angarakha although today kurta is considered to be traditional wear.

Turban or pagri, pencha, safa etc is the head dress of rajasthani men. The differential pattern of each geographical region is designed to suit climatic influence. There are about 1000 different styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan each denoting class, caste and region of wearer. It comes in all shapes, sizes and colours and there are specific turbans for specific occasion.

White dhotis are in vogue but on special occasion people wear silk dhotis.

Rajasthani Women Attire: An Overview

Traditional Clothing For Rajasthani Women Traditional Clothing For Rajasthani Women

The standard design include ghagra (skirt), odhani (head cloth) and kanchali (long, loose blouse). Odhani is long enough to cover the lower portion, one corner is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder. Colour and motifs are different according to caste and occasion.

There is one different kind of odhani Pila which is given by parents to daughter during the birth of a son. It is yellow in colour.

Rajasthani daily wear saris, odhani and turbans are often made from the technique of block printing and tie-dye.

Against the backdrop of dusty land, Rajasthani dresses is filled with with eye catching colours, the sparkle of mirror and silver and precious stones. The use of jootes is also common which is worn on feet specially decorated with gold thread and stars. It is said that jewellery also plays distinctive role in costume. An earring or studs, gold chains, silver hansli is the major ornament worn by Rajasthani people.

It is said that “If the cut of costume indicate intellect and talent then the colour indicate temper and heart”

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