Kanchali - Traditional Women Wear
The modern culture has not only affected customers but have also put them into darkness. The society had been ignorant of various art which were prevalent and formed the very base of past culture.
KANCHALI
In Sanskrit, the word is known as kechuli. It is the upper most garment which covers the chest portion of a women. Kanchali has sleeves attached with the topper.
Each caste wears different kanchali. Gadolia lohar women wear kanchali with inner linning. Gujar, gadaria and jaghwa women wear Chapper and Panihari kanchalis.
HISTORY
Since a long time, the art of making kanchali was popular in Mewar and northern areas of Rajasthan like Bagarh, Chappan, Amoth and Mewal. The kanchalis stitched here were worn by every class, caste and women member of the families.
Ankola Kanchali is the best type of kanchali and it was different from other types of kanchalis. The art of kanchali was started in Ankola some 100-150 years ago.
The kanchali were not only stitched by tailors but also by other class of people such as Bhatt, Nath and Guru. According to the daily demand, a person used to stitch 50 kanchali per day.
PATTERNS
Kanchali is of two types :
(1) Tukiyo
(2) Tunnwali
These are major kinds, apart from them there are others like pleated kaliya kanchali,Chopad and khadbuja kanchalis .
MATERIAL
The material used in kanchali were laltool, german blue, black khadi, yellow khadi, voil, satin, crepe and full crepe. In higher class kanchalis, expensive Pandachus are used.
In one kanchali, around 1/2 meter cloth is required which is divided into ten parts: tuki, kadpa, bugal, tuya, kamerpeti, kantla, phunda, kasna and pichwada etc.
