Odhani - Rajasthani Women Wear Representing a Rich Culture

Odhani is the symbolic representation of Rajasthan clan culture.  In high class of rural areas, the tradition of wearing odhani is quite ancient. The rural women adapt it as an idol of prestige and self respect.

Odhani wearing is a custom and devotion of Rajasthani women towards their husband and culture. Odhani is worn in combination with ghagra on lower portion and upper kurti/kanchali.

The length of odhani is around 3 meters and breadth is approx 1.5 meters which hangs along with ghagra.

On ordinary course, cotton and voil odhani is worn while on special  occasions, gota  odhani  with many colours    is more prevalent.

Printing and Coloring

The art of coloring and bandez work used to be done by famous Mittoji of Jaipur and Tadthyub khan.

From eighteen century onwards, the clothes used to be printed, colored and tied up in various forms in the markets of Jaipur city in Rajasthan, some of them are::

POMCHA

In this type of odhani, there is rounded motifs of lotus. The base is of yellow, saffron or pink coloured in which lotus flowers are beautifully displaced.

LEHARIYA

It is made of five colours which is the basis of Rajasthani number system.

CHUNARI

There are many kinds of motifs in chunari  like birds,  animals, floral and geometrical patterns.

IMPORTANCE

Many folk songs of Rajasthan are based on odhani which are sung on special festivals.

LAVERI ODHANI

In Vishnoi and Charan class, Laveri odhani is worn.

PATTERNS

Ghagra colors and printing is in pattern of Lehariya, mothra and chunari. In chunari, floral motifs and ornamental designs are made by artisans. Generally Multani and sagneri prints ghagras are worn as they are cheaper and durable.

On the eve of Teej, five coloured lehariya ghagra is worn by Rajasthani women. In nineteen century, the hunting scene motifs were quite popular. In one of the Japanese exhibitions that pattern of ghagra was exhibited. After that, instead of birds – animals motifs, floral designs became famous.

Silk colourful ghagra in which meenakari was done with silken threads, were also designed.

CHAVELI

The yarn  and pieces which are made to stitch ghagra are known as Chaveli. There are many folds and pleats in this type of ghagra. Kurtis – Kanchali are made in combination with ghagra.

MATERIAL

The royal class women wear ghagra of satin, velvet and fancy material. Velvet ghagra is coloured and printed in which on lower edge,  gota is also stitched. Sometimes on pleats or folds gota is stitched to make it look more attractive.

Gota on ghagra is made of threads of silver and  ghagras are passed from generation to generation

TYPES OF PAAG, PAGRI AND SAFA

Umrao Paag of Udaipur, Royal Saafa of Jaipur, Royal Jaswant Pech of Jodhpur, Samodh, Calcutti,  Toki, Dholpuri, Jalori and Malani are the various forms and names of them which binds the Rajasthani culture.

If the corner end part of cloth of saafa is coloured, then it is known as Chhla. If made of zari then it is called as Pecha. Kantop is name given to iron piece pagri.

Chanderi, Lehariya, Mothda, Pachranga and Satranga are the various types of pagri available in various colours in Rajasthan.

Nagauri Paag is quite famous as it was exported to other countries. In royal families of Jaipur, the popular Paag were – Paag lafdar and Shahigarh paag  which still hold place in royal attire.

Turban (Pagri) - Traditional Head Wear of Rajasthani Males

Safa - Wedding Head Wear for Indian People

Difference Between Pagri & Saafa

The method of tying safa and pagri is entirely different. Safa is 10 yards long and 1.25 yard broad while Pagri is 20 yards long and 7 inch broad cloth.

Significance of Pagri – Tradition of Rasam Pagri

Rasam pagri take place when a man passes away and his oldest son takes over the family responsibility by tying pagri in front of large gathering of people.  Jaipur Pagri shows an article of faith that represents  honor, self respect, courage and spirituality.

In Jodhpur, bridegroom wear saafa  on occasion of marriage which is 27 feet long and 41 inch broad. The safa which was worn by warroirs are known as Amarshahi safa.

Present Scenario

It has become a custom to honor any guest leader or an artist with pagri or safa. Nowdays safa and pagris of shiffon, voil, satin, cotton and ojaria are available in market.

A Little Boy Wearing a Heavy Pargi

To prevent and protect from the  shortfalls of seasons the use of wearing Topis, Safas, Paag and Pagri started. In later years it became a social custom to cover head with some cloth in any form. Certain examples clearly depicted this trend which can be seen in countries like America, Rome and Egypt.

HISTORY

Epic period showed the tradition of wearing Pagri. In Rajathan it is known by the name of PAGRI,  PAAG,  SAAFA, PECHU and  POTIA while in gujarat it is called as PHOLIA.

Pagri, Safa and Paag are still prevalent in different pattern in different area of Rajasthan. They are different according to various class and community.

RAJPUTS

In different areas of Rajasthan, Rajput pagri is different from other class. On different occasions they wear lehariya, mothda and various other types. The curves and turns are entirely distinguishable from other class. It shows their real pride and honor. It hangs down the shoulder.

Rich Landlord Wearing a Costly Turban

BISHNOI

They wear white saafa and white clothes. The dry climate of Rajasthan made their clothes light coloured.

BRAHMIN

In Hindu culture they are treated as pious. They wore pink colored safa or pagri.

GAWARIA

These are local tribal class which are nomadic by nature. They wear satin or violet pagri which was 30 foot long in length which has space to place comb, mirror etc.

BATT

They are known as Baldia Batt. Although they wear light coloured pagri but at time of fights they wear special kind which has knots all over it.In the centre of pagri there is a bronze metal piece to prevent from any injury.

Old Man Wearing a Turban with Pride

JOGI

They wear saffron colored saafa as they are saint class and other ones wear multicoloured cheap priced safa.

RABERI

This class keep moving for collecting food and fodder for their livestock. They mostly wear red coloured saafa which was made of cotton coloured. Its too long that it seem it covered the full body.

KALKI

Their pagri is passed from generation to generation. They mostly wear white pagri.

KUMAR

Potter class earn their living by making utensils of sand. This class wear red colored pagri and on marriage ceremonies white band is also put on red pagri so that  bridegroom can be easily noticeable.