Archive for category clothes rajasthan

NOSE AND NECK ORNAMENTS OF RAJASTHANI WOMEN

Nose and Neck Ornaments for Rajasthani Women

Nose and Neck Ornaments for Rajasthani Women

Feminine jewellery is complex but certainly a more beautiful form of art than masculine jewellery. It is worn as complete ensemble not as an accessory.

NOSE ORNAMENTS

NATH

It is a ring of five gold with a pearl threaded  between two rubies in its central part. It is worn on special occasion. This favorite ornament of female is made of thick wire.

KANTA

On the back of Kanta there is spring type wire through which it can be  worn through the hole of nose.

LONG

On the upper portion there are small four leaves and in the middle there is a red jewel. The lower portion is joined with wire. It is also known as keel. Vari,chunni and chaap are also decorative long.

On teeth gold chuppe are worn.

NECK ORNAMENTS

Hansali, Dussi,Tamaria,Panchladi,Satladi, Necklace ,mala and chain are some of neck ornaments.

HANSALI

It is half circular ornament whose middle part is broad and edges are tapered.

TIMADRIA

It is made of gold on which there is cluster of pearls are there. It is quite dense and heavy.

ARDH

It is smaller and narrow than Timadria.

PANCHLADI AND SATLADI

Panchladi is five chains of mala together while sathladi is seven chains.

TUSSI

It is mostly of pearls which is tied tightly over neck.

NAVRATAN

It is garland of nine jewels.

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Kurti – Ethnic Upper Wear of Rajasthani Women

Kurti is the shorter version of kurta. It is the upper garment of Rajasthani women worn with kanchali. In Rajasthan, only married women are required by tradition to wear a kurti.  party_kurti_KB23_sm

It is sleeveless garment with a deep horseshoe shaped neckline. Since the neck beneath is expanded most of kanchali beneath is exposed.

Different Styles

Kurti worn by Bishnoi class has a slitted side and a deep neckline that reveals all of Kanchali. The kurtis has its front open like a jacket, the piping at edges with a string holding the overlap at side seam and front is fastened with buttons and loops.

Rajput women kurti has no front opening and is easily slipped over the head.

Kurti Varieties

Embroidered Kurtis

Different embroidery, artworks like at needle work, cross-stitch,  suzani, phulkari, handanger are used to make embroidery kurtis. They are further decorated with zardosi work, beads, threads sequins and machine embroidery.

Printed Kurtis

The material used for this type of kurtis are cotton, silk, crepe and georgette. Tie and die, lehariya and mothra kurtis are most popular ones. Mirror work, kundan, stones, sequins and zari are used to make it attractive.

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Puthia – Traditional Wear of Rajasthani Women

Puthia is the upper part of attire of Rajasthani women. Rajasthan newborn babies, young married girls, elderly women and widows wear it as a upper garment.

It is a traditional wear of Rajasthan which gives comfort and protection from heat waves of Rajasthan state.

Rajasthani Costume

Puthia is much like angarkhi. The unbleached hand woven khadi cloth is used to create garment while some class wear printed cotton, brocade sand plain coloured fabric.

It is double breasted garment with a higher flap crossing over right side and tied with a  cord under left armpit. There is no joint at the waist and garment ends at hips itself.

The sleeve length vary from short elbow to full length.

The Puthia is constructed of two panels, one front extension, one back piece, two sleeves from side panels and gussets. The opening is in front with one to three ties. The neck is deep with widest portion over the chest . An inner flap covers the chest with a rounded neck and thus fastens with a loop and cloth button. This flap is held at waist with cloth tie chords and is further attached to ridge.

The shape of sleeve of armhole is made by use of triangular gussets known as Khankhi. The back has plain and straight cut. The fabric is turned with fold on outside and unfolded edges stitched into garment.

COLOUR

It is  the important factor as it denotes the community and class of a woman. A newborn baby wear red puthia with green piping but after  child first Holi it is  transform into white. An unmarried Bishnoi girl usually wear white pichodi with red piping.

MATERIAL

Rajputs wear puthia of satin, velvet, cotton and brocade fabric which are normally in white, pink and whitecolour.

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Tie and Die, Bandhej Shawls – Popular Winter Wear from Rajasthan

The term shawl is derived from Persian word shal, which means a clothing worn around a person. It is mainly worn to give a warm feeling, to complement a costume and for symbolic reasons.

It is a rectangular or oblong piece of cloth or garment that is worn to cover the head, neck or shoulders. It is also worn for offering prayers in many religions.

Bandhej Shawls of Rajasthan

HISTORY

Shawls were popular among Indians in variety of forms since ancient times. Kashmir valley of India is known for weaving shawl. The intricate embroidery and hand woven shawls from Kashmir are popular throughout Europe, Persia and other western countries.

RAJASTHANI SHAWLS

Tie and Die Shawls

Tie and die shawls in wool with beautiful embroidery and mirror work from craftsman of Rajasthan are famous world over. Tie and die is one of the most traditional method of printing shawls. These methods  involves dyeing only selected parts of cloth which yield multicolored designs and shades in a shawl.

Bandhej Shawls

Bandhej is also popular technique in which muslin, handloom or silk cloth as well as cotton is used for making bandhej shawl.  Starch, colours and ordinary threads are the raw material required for this type off shawls.

Earlier, vegetable dyes were used but now chemical dyes are becoming popular.

Wooden blocks are used for making attractive designs.

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Saree – One of The Very Popular Casual Wear of Rajasthani Women in Rural and Urban Areas

Kota Doria Sarees - Popular Wear of Rajasthani Women

Kota Doria Sarees - Popular Wear of Rajasthani Women

Saree word is derived from Prakrit word Sattika as mentioned in earliest  Jain and Buddhist literature.

What is Saree?

It is a six yard garment found in any women wardrobe. It is esentially a unstitched long piece of fabric which needs to be draped in a particular way to achieve the fully dress effect.

A saree is is one of the most elegant attire a worn can adorn. It is one of dress worn by Rajasthani women.

Essentials

The two essential parts of this attire are:

Petticoat which is waist to floor garment tied toughly at the waist by drawstring. It should always match sari base colour.

Blouse, which is worn as upper garment, of colour matching with sarees, can come as both sleeved or without sleeves. It ends just below the bust.

Dress Material

In past saree were woven of silk or cotton. The rich class afford finely woven silk sarees that according to folklore could be passed through a finger ring.

Inexpensive sarees were also decorated with block printing which were carved wooden block and vegetable dyes or tie dying known as bandhani work.

Fancy sarees buttis are made with gold and silver threads. Zardosi embroidery was done with gold and silver threads along with precious and semi precious stones.

Some of the Popular Themes of Sarees

Bandez, lehariya, mothra and chunari sarees are popular among rajasthan women. Bandhani and kota doria sarees are famous all over the country for its handwoven quality and cheap rates.

Draping

Draping a saree is an art. The sarees are worn in different styles in different states.

The most common method is wrapping the cloth around the waist making pleats in front and draping the final length around the shoulder. The remaining fabric that is draped  over the blouse and shoulder falling behind her is called Pallu.

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Pomcha, Lehariya and Chunari – Beautiful Odhanis of Rajasthan

Rajasthani Village Lady in Deep Thoughts

Rajasthani Village Lady in Deep Thoughts

Different Types of Odhani

Pomcha

The lotus motifs are printed and coloured in this type of odhani. Pomcha odhani which is yellow in colour, is usually worn by pregnant women. This odhani was sent by woman’s parents and she had to perform all the rituals while wearing it.

Lehariya

Lehariya is worn at the time of teej festival. Sometimes five coloured lehariya is worn which looks very colourful and attractive. Five number has a great significance in Indian culture.

Chunari

It usually contains various types of motifs  like birds, animals, florals etc. Elephant and peacock are among the popular  motifs. Gota is stitched to make it more decorative. Gota pieces are cut and stitched to form small flowers.

In Chanderi, Panther and Banaras zari odhani is worn.

Chaand Shawl

In zari odhani, there are moon motifs in the centre known as Chand shawl.

Nineteen century odhani used to have different formats which were divided into 4 parts, each of different colour and different pattern. In Banaras cotton zari odhani is worn.

Tribal Class Odhanis

Jawar Odhani

The jawar grains are depicted in form of small dots and  beautiful stems. The base is white while bootiya in red and black colour.

Tara Odhani

The base is red coloured and edge of odhani is star shaped. Designs were made   in white colour.

Lehar Odhani

It is form by small dots and upper area is similar to Jawar odhani.

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Odhani – Symbolic Representation of Rajasthani Women’s Devotion and Culture

Odhani - Rajasthani Women Wear Representing a Rich Culture

Odhani - Rajasthani Women Wear Representing a Rich Culture

Odhani is the symbolic representation of Rajasthan clan culture.  In high class of rural areas, the tradition of wearing odhani is quite ancient. The rural women adapt it as an idol of prestige and self respect.

Odhani wearing is a custom and devotion of Rajasthani women towards their husband and culture. Odhani is worn in combination with ghagra on lower portion and upper kurti/kanchali.

The length of odhani is around 3 meters and breadth is approx 1.5 meters which hangs along with ghagra.

On ordinary course, cotton and voil odhani is worn while on special  occasions, gota  odhani  with many colours    is more prevalent.

Printing and Coloring

The art of coloring and bandez work used to be done by famous Mittoji of Jaipur and Tadthyub khan.

From eighteen century onwards, the clothes used to be printed, colored and tied up in various forms in the markets of Jaipur city in Rajasthan, some of them are::

POMCHA

In this type of odhani, there is rounded motifs of lotus. The base is of yellow, saffron or pink coloured in which lotus flowers are beautifully displaced.

LEHARIYA

It is made of five colours which is the basis of Rajasthani number system.

CHUNARI

There are many kinds of motifs in chunari  like birds,  animals, floral and geometrical patterns.

IMPORTANCE

Many folk songs of Rajasthan are based on odhani which are sung on special festivals.

LAVERI ODHANI

In Vishnoi and Charan class, Laveri odhani is worn.

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Multicolored Base for Rajasthani Women – Wedding Attire of Traditional Females

Rajasthani Bridal Lengha - Wedding Attire

Rajasthani Bridal Lengha - Wedding Attire

BASE

It is a combination of lengha, kurti/ kanchali and odhani. Lengha is quite similar to ghagra but is usually longer in length and it hangs all the way to the ground.

It is a special dress worn by Rajasthani women on special occassions especially weddings.

Festive Colors

According to psychology, colour has a great impact on human personality. There are different colours of base for different purposes.

Red, maroon, saffron and pink colour base  are best for marriage purposes. All these colours are symbols of love and affection. Red denotes the power of goddess Lakshmi.

History

In early times, the printing and bandez work on the base used to be done by special caste called as Chippa. Now this art is transfered to garment industry and textile mills. This cloth is now exported outside the country.

Popular Base

On Diwali, Gota base was quite famous and it used to be worn by high class women. It is black in colour on which golden wires are beautifully used. It is exhibited in  City Palace of Jaipur.

On Teej, Lehariya base used to be worn. It was quite in demand in local market.

The lengha with 400-450 kaliyan was quite ethnic which worn earlier and it  is spread around 44 feet. It is kept in the museum of Churu.

Materials Used

Base are made of satin, silk tissue velvet, georgette and crepe.

Art

The work which is most prevalent on base is salma sitare, gulibar, jardosi, kundan, gadchula, tie and die .

Antique

The ocean wave base is made of 7-8 colours waves. Neelgiris and Tripolia areas used to prepare this type of base.

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Kanchali – Rajasthan Women Traditional Upper Garment

Kanchali - Traditional Women Wear

Kanchali - Traditional Women Wear

The modern culture has not only affected customers but have also put them into darkness. The society had been ignorant of various art which were prevalent and formed the very base of past culture.

KANCHALI

In Sanskrit, the word is known as kechuli. It is the upper most garment which covers the chest portion of a women. Kanchali has sleeves attached with the topper.

Each caste wears different kanchali. Gadolia lohar women wear kanchali with inner linning. Gujar, gadaria and jaghwa women wear Chapper and Panihari kanchalis.

HISTORY

Since a long time, the art of making kanchali was popular in Mewar and northern areas of Rajasthan like Bagarh, Chappan, Amoth and Mewal. The kanchalis stitched here were worn by every class, caste and women member of the families.

Ankola Kanchali is the best type of kanchali and it was different from other types of kanchalis. The art of kanchali was started in Ankola some 100-150 years ago.

The kanchali were not only stitched by tailors but also by other class of people such as Bhatt, Nath and Guru. According to the daily demand, a person used to stitch 50 kanchali  per day.

PATTERNS

Kanchali is of two types :

(1) Tukiyo

(2) Tunnwali

These are major kinds, apart from them there are others like pleated kaliya kanchali,Chopad and khadbuja kanchalis .

MATERIAL

The material used in kanchali were laltool, german blue, black khadi, yellow khadi, voil, satin, crepe and full crepe. In higher class kanchalis, expensive Pandachus are used.

In one kanchali, around 1/2 meter cloth is required  which is divided into ten parts: tuki, kadpa, bugal,  tuya,  kamerpeti, kantla, phunda, kasna and pichwada etc.

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Lehariya Ghagra – Rajasthani Women Festive Wear

Rajasthani women wear ankle length colourful skirts known as ghagra. The folds depict the prosperity of wearer. The skirts are tied around the waist and have flaring width at their base.

PATTERNS

Ghagra colors and printing is in pattern of Lehariya, mothra and chunari. In chunari, floral motifs and ornamental designs are made by artisans. Generally Multani and sagneri prints ghagras are worn as they are cheaper and durable.

On the eve of Teej, five coloured lehariya ghagra is worn by Rajasthani women. In nineteen century, the hunting scene motifs were quite popular. In one of the Japanese exhibitions that pattern of ghagra was exhibited. After that, instead of birds – animals motifs, floral designs became famous.

Silk colourful ghagra in which meenakari was done with silken threads, were also designed.

CHAVELI

The yarn  and pieces which are made to stitch ghagra are known as Chaveli. There are many folds and pleats in this type of ghagra. Kurtis – Kanchali are made in combination with ghagra.

MATERIAL

The royal class women wear ghagra of satin, velvet and fancy material. Velvet ghagra is coloured and printed in which on lower edge,  gota is also stitched. Sometimes on pleats or folds gota is stitched to make it look more attractive.

Gota on ghagra is made of threads of silver and  ghagras are passed from generation to generation

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